Roman (Working) Holiday

Drawing and Dreaming in the Eternal City

For the past three years, I’ve had my eye on The Rome Workshops. But due to either time, finances or family considerations, I never went. Until this year.

When I hit the “register” button last fall, I had a moment of panic. What had I done? I don’t speak Italian. I’m not a fan of flying. Could I keep up artistically with the class?

As the months inched closer, I’d occasionally panic again, then stuff down my emotions. But the week I was leaving, I felt a sense of dread so intense that for a split second, I thought about cancelling. I confessed my nerves to a friend whose response was that my feelings were a good sign: it meant I was about to do a new thing, I was shaking things up. And that was exactly what I needed to hear.

For the past couple years, I’ve existed. I don’t know that I’ve flourished. And most of that is on me. But Rome opened my eyes to the fact. The trip threw me into the deep end, no water wings, six feet of water beneath my flailing feet. And I did not drown.

The program runs in two week sessions and I participated in the first session. I took Heavy Metal Portrait Drawing with Stephen Bauman and it was amazing. Stephen is enthusiastic, encouraging, tough (but fair). He never let me coast. He never let me take the easy way out. Also, he can curate a great playlist. I’ve been studying through his Atelier program the past few years and highly recommend it. In addition to the instruction, my classmates were terrific and everyone really rooted for each other’s success. That can be a rare thing in the art world and is a credit to each of the participants and the classroom environment Stephen fosters. Also, everyone had a great sense of humor. You know you’re in the right place when the model starts giggling and struggles to stop. Cat tote bags 4 ever, guys.

Aside from drawing? There were museum trips, walking tours of the city and a lot of pasta. I visited as many churches as I could. Lunch breaks were typically 90 minutes, allowing for workshop participants to share meals and conversation. Also, there was gelato, which I ate daily, without compunction. In my defense, I walked a ton. I averaged 6-7 miles most days, two days over 9 miles (side note: if you have asthma, bring an inhaler). I survived the Jubilee crowds at the Vatican, insane heat and the madness of the Trevi Fountain on a Friday night. And I absolutely hit the roommate jackpot with two women who are absolute gems. Overall, I can’t say enough good about the program. The Rome Workshop’s founder, David Simon, has made something incredibly special.

So. My Roman hot takes? Here’s a couple things I’d suggest if you find yourself headed to Roma.

Sunscreen: Get the travel size, carry it everywhere. Bring a hat too. I’m 2/3 Irish, so this wasn’t my first rodeo.

Water: There’s water fountains throughout the city. Fill up your water bottle whenever you see one. Stay constantly hydrated. Paradoxically, bathrooms are hard to find. Museums are always a safe bet for finding a washroom. Otherwise, pay a couple euro and get a coffee someplace that does offer public restrooms.

You Should See/Skip: St. Peter’s/The Vatican is worth the visit, but show up when they open to avoid lines. I struggled with the fact that St. Peter’s was full of SO MANY PEOPLE taking SO MANY SELFIES. At times, I found my experiences in some of the other city churches more special; it’s worth popping into any you stumble on. I would 100% recommend visiting Santa Cecilia in Trastevere (also, the crypt). The Capitoline Museum is great (and Santa Maria in Aracoeli next door, too). I stayed near the former Jewish Ghetto and found the area absolutely charming. It’s vibrant, full of life, home to the Great Synagogue of Rome and a Hebrew school. Piazza Navona is stunning, Campo de' Fiori amazing. But the Ghetto feels like a real neighborhood with real people and I loved that.

Gelato: Fatamorgana is worth the hype.

Coffee: I had the best cappucinno of my life at Gran Caffé Rione VIII. The baristas there are rockstars.

Books: I regret not being able to visit The Little Reader. I did enjoy poking around Feltrinelli, though, marveling at the children’s books.

Art Supplies: I loved Ditta G. Poggi.

Language: I was incredibly grateful for how many people in Rome spoke English, especially when I fumbled basic Italian phrases. Even so, knowing a few words can make things easier, like reading signs or finding a restroom. I used Duolingo and a basic Italian textbook, but wish I’d been more intentional in studying.

Shoes: One word: cobblestones. Leave your sandals home. I’d bought these maryjanes a few years back for Ireland and brought them to Rome. They pop up on sale occasionally and I love them. Amazingly enough, they actually ended up being more comfortable than the sneakers I brought.

There’s probably things I’m forgetting. I know there’s things I’m forgetting. I think the further I get out from the experience, the more the fruits of the trip will become known. I’m still unpacking a lot in my head. But I returned home with a greater enthusiasm for art and life.

And I know that’s thanks to Rome. And let’s be honest, the gelato didn’t hurt.